Відео

Any idea on what to do after removing OPC pointing and you're left with a bunch of stone that has disintegrated? We have bubbles of paint and inside is full of sand, eroded from the sandstone bricks. Very thick bricks, but unsettling to see so much material removed...

Thanks. What can we use to remove the paint with, and Inc on sandstone?

Do what's the solution if the levels are too high outside?

Thanks Peter Will letting the building breathe heat the place up? Ours is getting very cold and we were thinking of using chimney sheep's to stop cold air getting in. Good idea?

Videos like this help me feel so lucky I’ve only lived with well-kept chimneys or ones the family built themselves. So many things to go wrong! Look after your chimneys, in return they won’t burn you, raze you or choke you❤

What type of professional do I need to talk to locally to do a similar diagnosis on our house? I've spoken to a damp proofing company about damp under the floors but they're not interested as there are no signs of damp above the floorboards.

Really appreciate your videos. Is there a recommended amount of air bricks to have per room. At present we have 1 at the front wall and the back wall in each room. There's 3 rooms downstairs, varying 12-15ft wide x 20ft long. The 20ft is the distance between the vents. Also i did see you mention in a previous video what the recommended distance from the outside vent to the ground level but i can't find it now. Any idea what this would be. Much appreciated . Thank you Peter

This is a Mk3

this is good

Hi Peter. Looking to wrap a house with cracking and broken render with Murfill fleece and the accompanied products. Can you confirm this is a good system?

well done fella for showing them that try to down grade a good home to a bad home my house is dry as fuk but came back after a survey from the buyer paid for all bad the house is 88 years old just trying to to rob you of you house

is there a paint that can be used for external brickwork that keeps water out but allows the wall to still breath

Whats the Michael James pocket?

Good man doing a good job using an intelligent approach treating the problem not the symptoms...masking the symptoms doesn't solve the problem...

its starting to dry because you have opened it up to the air what and idiot you really are

Hi Peter @Warmdryhome. I've used Stormdry Masonry Cream on an external wall to treat penetrating damp. It's too early to say whether or not it's worked, but I've since read on your website that this product is essentially a dud. I was reassured that this product was effective by its BBA certification. How is it that an ineffective product - and one that can actually make matters worse - could gain BBA approval?

Did you get that vent pipe off the tumble dryer lol😂⚒️❗

Great explanation house need breathing air vents blocked

Great video. My subfloor vents have been sealed for the front room (living room) by the previous owner (2 up 2 down gabel end red brick terrace) The problem is the back room (kitchen) is a concrete floor so i don't think I'll get air passing all the way through? I'm guessing it's still better to open them up but because they're so low I'm worried rain water may come in. Would it be best to put a air brick vent cover over maybe and open them up?

i do love your videos. i.m in the process of clearing my subfloors removing historic osmosis strips and cleaning old air brick and adding new ones and adding telescopic vents to reachthe sub floor from pavement level

great bit info but didnt say how to fix it ?

You need lime in the cement mix. 3. 1 and 1.

My house is 9inch brick work with no insulation. What do you think about knocking plaster off back to brickwork and. Batten with insulated plasterboard on it? Will the air gap be ok?

What a mess when you build a stone wall always cement behind so not visible small joints no problem when done good improves the look

Thank u good sir I’ve had similar issues in my property. Wally damp man advised me of rising damp slurry on wall etc. Didn’t ask me anything about the sub floor etc or gutter. So I took off the floor boards and saw an undersized air vent that was virtually buried plus a lot of dirt in one corner that was upto the base of one of the internal walls.

How can we repair it

Hi what sort of lime mortar is ideal for the repointing. I’m new to this so need the exact details. Kind regards

Peter i wonder if its possible if i could ring you for advice im in Northern Ireland. Im being advised to put on sand and cement render and other stuff. I live on my on and need advice please

hi,what paint brands do you reccomend for old houses,ive bought an 1880 cottage,with some damp in the living room,and fireplace,it needs decorating,but i dont want to make it any worse than it is.thnx bob

incredible

I'm in Sydney, Australia, I've found your info and videos form your web page. Thank you, I am learning so much and feel better equip to deal with the tradesmen that I'm going to need. We've had a crazy summer of rain and humidity (the worst on record for 60 years) and were all having problems with mould and damp and leaks. Ive had some I could not work out why my humidity readings and mould levels have been so high is what looks like a solid, double brick, rendered modern, 20 year old home. By sheer chance a big chunk of render fell off the back of the house a few weeks ago, it was damp, in fact it was sodden, and there are cracks in the render all over the back south eastern corner of the house (the external wall of the kids rooms). On closer inspection of the roof above some idiot has not installed the roof capping properly and the brick is exposed at the top of the wall, so all these years water has been raining directly into the brick cavity and it hasn't been able to get out as it's been trapped in by the render. So many tradesmen telling me different stories but I felt certain that this is what had been going on, these videos have helped me understand that I was right and I think the best thing to do is to actually remove the render for a while, let the wall dry out (if it ever stops raining) while the roof gets secured. What nightmare!

Hi Peter, thanks for this video. I'm an Edwardian end-terrace owner on a low income. I believe my house is an absolute case in point (pardon the pun). I had the roof replaced 3 years ago, but the chimney is still dripping and it turns out the roofer didn't cap it. Now the upstairs chimney breast is so damp it's making me choke to sleep in there, but a recent quote to cap/repoint the chimney and repair some guttering was £1200. This seems extortionate to me (no scaffolding). Would you be able to suggest the kind of costs involved in improving cases like these? And does it have to be all or nothing? Many thanks.

Awesome Sir.

What is the solution please? Cut out new plaster & bitumen tanking and allow to dry before using lime plaster? Would that sound about right in your opinion?

Should the render gaps where it meets the timber be filled with new render or are the gaps ok? We have fake Tudor boards on house, many rotten and needs replacing and not sure if the gaps in the render should be filled and maybe siliconed to form a rain tight gap. Thank you if you can advise.

You’re videos are the only thing I’ve found on the internet that talks about how to cure damp rather than seal it back in!! Finally some sanity. I’ve just bought a 1930s house and there definitely damp inside. Im wondering if you’d recommend stripping all the internal wall paint incase it’s the non breathable type and then painting with a healthier kind? It’s a lot of work but if it’ll help then I’ll do it. What do you reckon? Thanks!

Hi Peter I have same issue in my house. I have fitted telescopic air vents. From your experience are they good?

Peter ward you are incredible.. you haven't sold your soul to the Devil ( Damp cause Fraud Wally's).. I as a woman have learnt so so much watching your videos...Wow what a eye-opener.... Please keep sharing..

Helpful video. Do you think the same techniques, using soda instead of sand, would work on old-growth Redwood beams?

What would you recommend for repointing brickwork to a 193’s house? I’m sure if I had a builder to sort it it would be cement pointing but after seeing this video I think I’ll just do it myself but not sure what to use? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

What happened in the end?

Hi Peter I'm looking to drive up that way spring/summer maybe camp for a couple of nights and look at the mines around there , what are the chances of getting a tour down the mine and hopefully get myself a couple of nice little pieces , I would love to experience it and would pay for it

Well? I can’t find follow up to this interesting find.Really wish you revisited the results.

Thanks for video

Thank you for all your videos, been very educational and I am going to steer well clear of any damp proof company now. What is the solution for outside walls butting up against the house? I have a garden wall that joins to the corner of my property and a damp area on the inside corner where the walls join. Ground levels are a bit high too so working on lowering that but I can't seem to find your fix for walls butting up against the main building.

How does the moisture get there? If the cement render is impermeable then how does condensation get through to the wall?

I bet when scraped the paint off the house gasped for breath.

And measuring from video the purlin looks to be 4.5 m long and the roof no more than 6 m wide and for that span you would need a 225 mm by 150 mm oak purlin (9"x6").

Hi Peter. I'm a structural engineer and I have commented some of your other videos. And yes!! The purlin size is quite ridiculous for the width of roof supported and its span. I do lots of barn surveys for people wanting to convert them to dwellings so have built up quite a bit of experience over last 30 years. One thing I have found is that although the rafters and main trusses are all of a good size, the purlins are often undersized and I often recommend that the purlins are either strengthened with a timber beside them or replaced.

Hi Peter, I'm a structural engineer - you are correct in your approach to cure the rain water settling on the wall base as that will ultimately lead to some subsidence of the house. My feeling is that the cracking around the wall base is not due to subsidence itself and most likely to be local weakness/deterioration. If there was any major movement then you would be likely to see it a fair distance from the corner and around opening in the elevation each side at doors and windows. Also I do not think that the bulging of the timber frame is due to subsidence and it looks as if it has been there a long time as you do get in timber frame buildings and is due to lack of lateral restraint from the interior of the building.