![Peter Ward](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Peter Ward
United Kingdom
Приєднався 7 бер 2011
All about old houses. Author of best selling book "The Warm Dry Home" . THE book on damp problems in your home. Learn about damp - the real causes and solutions. Forget damp proofing, timber treatment, 'preservation' and all chemical industry frauds. Showing practical, simple, inexpensive ways to solve damp problems, and teaching about old houses and caring for them. We've restored old homes using traditional materials - we don't use cement, gypsum and modern materials. Everything is about breathability, and warm, dry homes.
Roof problems causing serious damp internally
A combination of problems: gutters too long, broken gutters, bad tiling, poor stormwater disposal - all contribute to a lot of damp problems internally to this barn conversion. The solutions are simple - sort gutters , roof and downpipes.
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Відео
Damp marks on walls - why?
Переглядів 2 тис.21 день тому
This converted barn has damp patches all over the walls. We explain why, and what the solution will be.
Orleton Manor roof removal -The gable truss is removed(9)
Переглядів 2,4 тис.2 роки тому
Removing the first of the trusses - this one complete with window and infill panels! www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Orleton Manor roof - Jake explains the next steps in repair
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Now we have to repair the trusses and wallplates ready for the roof to be replaced. It's going to be about an 8 week program of work. www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Orleton Manor roof removal - The last bit of wallplate (13)
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Finally, a section of badly d amaged wallplate is removed for repair as well www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Orleton Manor roof removal - main truss removal (10)
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The remaining trusses have been strengthened and tied together for lifting ready for repair on the ground. www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Orleton Manor roof removal - the biggest purlin comes off (7)
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These are massive timbers - Jake thinks both these are from the same tree, over 12 metres long. How did the old boys even get them up there? www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Orleton Manor roof - Second big truss removed (11)
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Here we lift the second of the trusses - already strengthened ready for its journey to the ground. A little pursuasion is sometimes needed, but these 500 year old timbers give way surprisingly easily. www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Orleton Manor roof removal - first long purlin (6)
Переглядів 5042 роки тому
These are massive timbers - two more even bigger ones follow this one, so its just a warm up! www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Orleton Manor roof - Jake's wallplate strategy
Переглядів 1,6 тис.2 роки тому
Now we have to repair the trusses and wallplates ready for the roof to be replaced. It's going to be about an 8 week program of work. Jake explains how he takes initial measurements to set up the construction on the ground. www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.o...
Orleton Manor roof removal - the biggest purlin finished (8)
Переглядів 5652 роки тому
These are massive timbers - Jake thinks both these are from the same tree, over 12 metres long. How did the old boys even get them up there? www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Orleton Manor roof - the first purlin comes off (5)
Переглядів 6432 роки тому
Here we start to carefully unpick the roof timbers. The framers have removed pegs and readied the timbers for lifting. A little pursuasion is sometimes needed, but these 500 year old timbers give way surprisingly easily. www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orle...
Orleton Manor Roof - The Crane arrives
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Orleton manor roof works - the crane arrives, and the boys start removing roof timbers... www.heritage-house.org www.heritage-survey.org oakleyframebuildings.co.uk For more information and updates on the Orleton Manor project please subscribe to the blog at www.orletonmanor.com.
Raising the roof - Orleton Manor roof removal - Part 2
Переглядів 2 тис.2 роки тому
After 12 months of work to rebuild the walls beneath the roof, Jake Oakley - the Lead Timber Framer on the Project - takes us through the plan to remove the 600 year old roof trusses to enable final structural timber frame repairs to the wallplates. The trusses will be themselves repaired and strengthened, before being lifted back into place on the roof. Most of the damage to the frame has been...
Raising the roof - Orleton Manor roof removal - Part 4
Переглядів 1,5 тис.2 роки тому
Before removing the huge 600 year old roof trusses, a final check around the structure to see the braces, straps and structural reinforcement of the building. Tomorrow the roof trusses will be lifted off with a crane, allowing completion of the wallplate repairs. The trusses themselves will be repaired and then replaced - allowing the roof to be put back on the building. www.heritage-house.org ...
Raising the Roof - Orleton Manor roof removal - Part 3
Переглядів 1,2 тис.2 роки тому
Raising the Roof - Orleton Manor roof removal - Part 3
Raising the Roof - Orleton Manor roof removal - Part 1
Переглядів 2,1 тис.2 роки тому
Raising the Roof - Orleton Manor roof removal - Part 1
Repairs to 500 year old timber frame Manor House
Переглядів 5 тис.2 роки тому
Repairs to 500 year old timber frame Manor House
Pete and Corey discuss 'flood resilience' in old buildings
Переглядів 7 тис.4 роки тому
Pete and Corey discuss 'flood resilience' in old buildings
The Environmental Health industry - incompetence being taught...
Переглядів 11 тис.4 роки тому
The Environmental Health industry - incompetence being taught...
Historic Timber Frame Survey - what we look for...
Переглядів 4,4 тис.4 роки тому
Historic Timber Frame Survey - what we look for...
Damp cellars and basements - how to dry them out
Переглядів 87 тис.4 роки тому
Damp cellars and basements - how to dry them out
The fraud that is aquapol and core conservation
Переглядів 27 тис.5 років тому
The fraud that is aquapol and core conservation
A Grade 2 Listed medieval house - or is it?
Переглядів 39 тис.5 років тому
A Grade 2 Listed medieval house - or is it?
Any idea on what to do after removing OPC pointing and you're left with a bunch of stone that has disintegrated? We have bubbles of paint and inside is full of sand, eroded from the sandstone bricks. Very thick bricks, but unsettling to see so much material removed...
Thanks. What can we use to remove the paint with, and Inc on sandstone?
Do what's the solution if the levels are too high outside?
Thanks Peter Will letting the building breathe heat the place up? Ours is getting very cold and we were thinking of using chimney sheep's to stop cold air getting in. Good idea?
Videos like this help me feel so lucky I’ve only lived with well-kept chimneys or ones the family built themselves. So many things to go wrong! Look after your chimneys, in return they won’t burn you, raze you or choke you❤
What type of professional do I need to talk to locally to do a similar diagnosis on our house? I've spoken to a damp proofing company about damp under the floors but they're not interested as there are no signs of damp above the floorboards.
Really appreciate your videos. Is there a recommended amount of air bricks to have per room. At present we have 1 at the front wall and the back wall in each room. There's 3 rooms downstairs, varying 12-15ft wide x 20ft long. The 20ft is the distance between the vents. Also i did see you mention in a previous video what the recommended distance from the outside vent to the ground level but i can't find it now. Any idea what this would be. Much appreciated . Thank you Peter
This is a Mk3
this is good
Hi Peter. Looking to wrap a house with cracking and broken render with Murfill fleece and the accompanied products. Can you confirm this is a good system?
well done fella for showing them that try to down grade a good home to a bad home my house is dry as fuk but came back after a survey from the buyer paid for all bad the house is 88 years old just trying to to rob you of you house
is there a paint that can be used for external brickwork that keeps water out but allows the wall to still breath
Yes, a mineral based paint. Keim is the best but very expensive. Limewash is the most breathable but only really works on very porous surfaces. You couldn’t use it on a cement render like pebble dash because it doesn’t soak in enough.
Whats the Michael James pocket?
Good man doing a good job using an intelligent approach treating the problem not the symptoms...masking the symptoms doesn't solve the problem...
Thanks! We do try.
its starting to dry because you have opened it up to the air what and idiot you really are
Hi Peter @Warmdryhome. I've used Stormdry Masonry Cream on an external wall to treat penetrating damp. It's too early to say whether or not it's worked, but I've since read on your website that this product is essentially a dud. I was reassured that this product was effective by its BBA certification. How is it that an ineffective product - and one that can actually make matters worse - could gain BBA approval?
Unfortunately bba is just a 'pay for cert' scam - none of these products are properly tested - they just give a ticket for money, based on manufacturers data. bba and bre were both found not fit for purpose during the Grenfell Enquiry - their 'testing' and certification of insulation is shocking to say the least - entirely made up rubbish. bba 'certify' spray foams, despite the fact we all know sprayfoam destroys roofs - see latest RICS advice which all but totally condemns sprayfoam - the sales fraudsters sell it on the basis its 'approved by bba and therefore building regulations' - its not - it just has a silly certificate that they paid for. Neither bba or bre give a rats about whether products work. bba over the years has certified dozens and dozens of utterly snake oil damp proofing scam products that could never and did never work. Its all about the money. people like stormdry are selling vast tonnages of useless chemicals on the back of these certificates - and people like you are unfortunately taken in by it. Until there is far tighter control of testing, and certification has to be on the basis of fully verified independent test methods, this scam will carry on. As part of the Grenfell Forum, I've been a part of the push to make bre a nationalised government laboratory again. Only then will be hopefully see independent testing. Masonry creams did not and will never achieve anything. We tested them here, and there's spalling sandstone blocks in the test wall as a result. More important that your wall is clear of any waterproofing stuff, and is properly pointed using fully breathable mortar - hot lime mortar is best, with no paint.
Thanks for the explanation Peter, that’s really helpful.
Did you get that vent pipe off the tumble dryer lol😂⚒️❗
Great explanation house need breathing air vents blocked
Great video. My subfloor vents have been sealed for the front room (living room) by the previous owner (2 up 2 down gabel end red brick terrace) The problem is the back room (kitchen) is a concrete floor so i don't think I'll get air passing all the way through? I'm guessing it's still better to open them up but because they're so low I'm worried rain water may come in. Would it be best to put a air brick vent cover over maybe and open them up?
Ideally external ground level needs to be 150mm below internal ground level. Originally, kitchen would have been connected to the front, via air vents to get through flow. Yes, if the front is suspended, you need those air vents exposed. Ground must be below them so water cannot run into them. Do you have problems, or is this just observation at this point? Also check stormwater drainage - downpipes, etc - do they discharge INTO gulleys, or discharge over the ground - make sure all storm water goes into drains - and that those drains are not cracked underground - ideally get a cctv survey - and ensure that storm water is taken away. This helps keep ground at low level nice and dry.
@@WarmDryHome thanks so much for your reply. I just measured it I would say it's about 100-120mm below at the front and over 150mm below at the gable end. I will defo get them open at the front then, just a little concerned if the rain comes towards them as they are old vents with big holes. I'll probably get some newer ones fitted. The front ones are about 25mm from the ground, is that too low? Would it be sufficient to have open vents on the front and gable end? The gable vents are newer plastic style ones. Not sure what I can do about the back as that room is concrete. The floor in the front room is bouncy, I've not had it all up but i would say the joist and floorboards are probably on the way out. There are no downpipes on the front just gutters. I don't think anything drains on that side.
i do love your videos. i.m in the process of clearing my subfloors removing historic osmosis strips and cleaning old air brick and adding new ones and adding telescopic vents to reachthe sub floor from pavement level
Thanks Alan - glad to have helped. Hope everything works out. I've just released the new book - Warm Dry Home - which is on the Heritage House website here: www.heritage-house.org/products/the-warm-dry-home-1.html - I'll do a video soon, so more folk get to know about it.! Have a good Christmas!! Pete
great bit info but didnt say how to fix it ?
You need lime in the cement mix. 3. 1 and 1.
My house is 9inch brick work with no insulation. What do you think about knocking plaster off back to brickwork and. Batten with insulated plasterboard on it? Will the air gap be ok?
What a mess when you build a stone wall always cement behind so not visible small joints no problem when done good improves the look
Thank u good sir I’ve had similar issues in my property. Wally damp man advised me of rising damp slurry on wall etc. Didn’t ask me anything about the sub floor etc or gutter. So I took off the floor boards and saw an undersized air vent that was virtually buried plus a lot of dirt in one corner that was upto the base of one of the internal walls.
How can we repair it
Hi what sort of lime mortar is ideal for the repointing. I’m new to this so need the exact details. Kind regards
Peter i wonder if its possible if i could ring you for advice im in Northern Ireland. Im being advised to put on sand and cement render and other stuff. I live on my on and need advice please
Laura - no problem - if yu email details to our office at : office@heritage-survey.org - then Michelle can have a look and see what we can do for you. I've done a fair few in NI and the south, so far with 100% success!!
hi,what paint brands do you reccomend for old houses,ive bought an 1880 cottage,with some damp in the living room,and fireplace,it needs decorating,but i dont want to make it any worse than it is.thnx bob
Hi Bob - its not so much brands - its all about breathability. Having said that, externally, limewash is best. Can be any colour .. Internally the chalk based paints are superb - either earthborn, or the best company in my view - you can talk to them as well - they really know their stuff - is Ingilby paints - easy to find online, and give good advice....
incredible
I'm in Sydney, Australia, I've found your info and videos form your web page. Thank you, I am learning so much and feel better equip to deal with the tradesmen that I'm going to need. We've had a crazy summer of rain and humidity (the worst on record for 60 years) and were all having problems with mould and damp and leaks. Ive had some I could not work out why my humidity readings and mould levels have been so high is what looks like a solid, double brick, rendered modern, 20 year old home. By sheer chance a big chunk of render fell off the back of the house a few weeks ago, it was damp, in fact it was sodden, and there are cracks in the render all over the back south eastern corner of the house (the external wall of the kids rooms). On closer inspection of the roof above some idiot has not installed the roof capping properly and the brick is exposed at the top of the wall, so all these years water has been raining directly into the brick cavity and it hasn't been able to get out as it's been trapped in by the render. So many tradesmen telling me different stories but I felt certain that this is what had been going on, these videos have helped me understand that I was right and I think the best thing to do is to actually remove the render for a while, let the wall dry out (if it ever stops raining) while the roof gets secured. What nightmare!
Hi Peter, thanks for this video. I'm an Edwardian end-terrace owner on a low income. I believe my house is an absolute case in point (pardon the pun). I had the roof replaced 3 years ago, but the chimney is still dripping and it turns out the roofer didn't cap it. Now the upstairs chimney breast is so damp it's making me choke to sleep in there, but a recent quote to cap/repoint the chimney and repair some guttering was £1200. This seems extortionate to me (no scaffolding). Would you be able to suggest the kind of costs involved in improving cases like these? And does it have to be all or nothing? Many thanks.
Awesome Sir.
What is the solution please? Cut out new plaster & bitumen tanking and allow to dry before using lime plaster? Would that sound about right in your opinion?
Ideally yes - sometimes, if its not too bad, the aim is to reduce moisture in the air, and look to a long term dry environment - that prevents the problem getting any worse - usually involves better ventilation internally - kitchens, bathrooms etc - with humidity control. Thats always cheaper, and you can then sit back and think "do we need to do any destructive stuff to the walls, even if they HAVE got the wrong thing on them".. if the problem stops, and doesnt get any worse, then youve solved it with inexpensive approaches to ventilation. win win..
@@WarmDryHome Excellent many thanks & thanks for the videos you post. Really find them helpful
Should the render gaps where it meets the timber be filled with new render or are the gaps ok? We have fake Tudor boards on house, many rotten and needs replacing and not sure if the gaps in the render should be filled and maybe siliconed to form a rain tight gap. Thank you if you can advise.
Ideally all gaps are filled with a BREATHABLE render / mortar - we use oakam caulking (hemp soaked in stockholm tar) hammered in - its flexible and breathable. The Heritage House website has it in the online shop. But - if yours is fake beams - they are most likely planted onto brickwork? So my advice is that they have rotted because of inappropriate painting - plastic (dulux etc ) traps moisture, and rots the timber. Silicone does the same. Best option is to NOT seal timber at all - and if you painting it, to use breathable (and they really are) linseed paints from the linseed paint company. Michiel who runs the company is always happy to advise.
@@WarmDryHome thank you Peter that's great advice. Yes fake beams, just 22x150 boards. They've been up for the best part of 35 years and oiled with deck oil over the past 15 years. The render is still good except where it meets the planks, there's a gap on most and couldn't work out if gunning in a line of muck would be appropriate. I'll check out the site you mentioned. Many thanks 👍👍
You’re videos are the only thing I’ve found on the internet that talks about how to cure damp rather than seal it back in!! Finally some sanity. I’ve just bought a 1930s house and there definitely damp inside. Im wondering if you’d recommend stripping all the internal wall paint incase it’s the non breathable type and then painting with a healthier kind? It’s a lot of work but if it’ll help then I’ll do it. What do you reckon? Thanks!
I'd probably focus on moisture levels in the house first - before you spend money, just get it properly heated - constant low temp heating, gentle ventilation, open up fireplaces so the chimneys are vented, check any sub floor vents are working, look at whether anyone has cavity insulated (if walls are filled it may well be damp so causing a big headache - also cavity fill blocks sub floor and wall vents) Also, look carefully at bathroom and kitchen ventilation - is kitchen vented externally and do you use it all the time - even to boil a kettle. Bathrooms need humidity controlled vent fans so moisture is pulled out - dont forget it takes on average 7 hours for moisture levels to drop to normal after a shower. And.. check all drains, downpipes gutters etc - underground drainage is often cracked and broken - so essential you get cameras down all drains - this way you eliminate any form of moisture BEFORE you actually spend money on the house! Also ground levels - 150mm below damp course level (even if dpc's arent really needed - they set the level of ground so no moisture can get into the walls and floors)
@@WarmDryHome thanks so much for your detailed response. I’ll be sure to do all those things! Probably makes sense to remove moisture trapping paint too once I’ve done the rest. Pretty sure there’s no wall insulation so that’s probs my main issue. Thanks again!
Pleasure.. .dont forget to look at the www.heritage-house.org website if you need more info - also, we run a facebook site - Traditional and Listed Building Advice - where folks in a similar place to you, can ask advice from others. We're admins, so keep a close eye on what goes on!
Hi Peter I have same issue in my house. I have fitted telescopic air vents. From your experience are they good?
Peter ward you are incredible.. you haven't sold your soul to the Devil ( Damp cause Fraud Wally's).. I as a woman have learnt so so much watching your videos...Wow what a eye-opener.... Please keep sharing..
Helpful video. Do you think the same techniques, using soda instead of sand, would work on old-growth Redwood beams?
I'd say so - its the pressure that you need to watch - not the grit. Around 40 psi max...
What would you recommend for repointing brickwork to a 193’s house? I’m sure if I had a builder to sort it it would be cement pointing but after seeing this video I think I’ll just do it myself but not sure what to use? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Almost certainly a lime mix with zero portland cement. I'd personally use a hot lime mix, but if you want to DIY, and use nhl mortar, get the nhl 2 rather than a 3.5 which haradens almost as bad as portland cement.
@@WarmDryHome Many thanks Peter, really appreciate your reply. Keep the videos coming 👍🏻
What happened in the end?
I'm not really sure other than they bought the place and restored it, so I'm certain those shutters will now work beautifully!
Hi Peter I'm looking to drive up that way spring/summer maybe camp for a couple of nights and look at the mines around there , what are the chances of getting a tour down the mine and hopefully get myself a couple of nice little pieces , I would love to experience it and would pay for it
We dont allow collecting underground - but you might be able to join us on one of our visitor weekends - email gmp@gmail.com and let us know details and timing. Usually first weekend of each month is visitor..
@@WarmDryHome thank you very much I will look in to it and plan a weekend up there , also I've seen there's a few places up that way where you can find flourspar and quartz lying about by old mones , is that something I could do and possibly you could point me in the direction of
Well? I can’t find follow up to this interesting find.Really wish you revisited the results.
Hard when doing purchase surveys. They bought it, and I'm certain have restored it fully.
Hi Peter, Could you please explain what plant that leaf is off? I couldn't quite catch it. Thanks@@WarmDryHome
Thanks for video
Thank you for all your videos, been very educational and I am going to steer well clear of any damp proof company now. What is the solution for outside walls butting up against the house? I have a garden wall that joins to the corner of my property and a damp area on the inside corner where the walls join. Ground levels are a bit high too so working on lowering that but I can't seem to find your fix for walls butting up against the main building.
I tell folk to separate it. If the gap is filled with breathable material like lime mortar (hotlime not nhl) it will let go of moisture and wont be a problem. I'd focus on the join, clean it out, remove any cement, and get it drying, then if you want to joint it back, use lime mortar..
How does the moisture get there? If the cement render is impermeable then how does condensation get through to the wall?
Via diffusion as a gas, which can get through almost anything. From the inside. Its only a problem when it cools below dew point and condenses as water.
I bet when scraped the paint off the house gasped for breath.
Well it started to dry, thats for sure.
And measuring from video the purlin looks to be 4.5 m long and the roof no more than 6 m wide and for that span you would need a 225 mm by 150 mm oak purlin (9"x6").
John thank you - thats the first sensible suggestion I've seen for a long time on the oak issue. I do work with structural engineers on projects who understand oak - but this one goes back a while, and I've seen similar ridiculous dimensions quoted by other engineers. Be interested to keep your details if I can - your kind of skills are not easy to come by..
Something to bear in mind also the original timbers are usually box hearted, axed square so not removing strength as milling does and also from fast grown coppice type trees so full of sapwood unlike today and these buildings and roofs stand for hundreds of years. I have seen aspen used for beams and my own house the beams and joists are beech. Imagine if you used those today?
Hi Peter. I'm a structural engineer and I have commented some of your other videos. And yes!! The purlin size is quite ridiculous for the width of roof supported and its span. I do lots of barn surveys for people wanting to convert them to dwellings so have built up quite a bit of experience over last 30 years. One thing I have found is that although the rafters and main trusses are all of a good size, the purlins are often undersized and I often recommend that the purlins are either strengthened with a timber beside them or replaced.
Cheers John - sorry for the late reply!!! Much appreciated comment though - people are often led by the nose by engineers who dont have experience of old buildings. There's calculations, and there's experience - see the latest videos about Orleton Manor for some serious timber repairs!
Hi Peter, I'm a structural engineer - you are correct in your approach to cure the rain water settling on the wall base as that will ultimately lead to some subsidence of the house. My feeling is that the cracking around the wall base is not due to subsidence itself and most likely to be local weakness/deterioration. If there was any major movement then you would be likely to see it a fair distance from the corner and around opening in the elevation each side at doors and windows. Also I do not think that the bulging of the timber frame is due to subsidence and it looks as if it has been there a long time as you do get in timber frame buildings and is due to lack of lateral restraint from the interior of the building.
Fair comment - and any local movement would allow roof spread, which could well create bulging...